4fourteen: Tonight you're mine completely

Colin Fassnidge, Irish-born Four in Hand chef and brainchild of 4fourteen has been touted a 'poet of pork' by many. Having sampled a bit of his porcine offerings at Taste of Sydney earlier, (which was smashing by the way), I headed to his restaurant with a surmountable anticipation to be swept off my feet.

4fourteen assumes a trendy but fast becoming cliche, back to basics space. Stripped-back with a Manhattan loft apartment vibe, the crowds that flock to the diner are of similar facade, uber cool, already with a couple of open wine bottles gracing their tables. 

We dived into the specials for appetisers, Oysters from the nearby Batemans Bay ($4 each). These were equivalent to the orgasmic experience I had at Ormeggio at the Spit with their carnaroli risotto dish. These were creamy, plump and basically tasted like sex (if you know what I mean).

Between the two of us, we decided to opt for 2 large plates to share. First up was the Roast Pork, Grilled nectarines, kipflers ($36) , that's a come-hither mix of crisped skin, juicy pork loin strewn with grilled stone fruit, glistening from caramelisation. With this offering, I came to admire the kitchen's restraint with salt and added fats. However, the pork was a borderline tough and that just didn't quite float my boat.

Best is the Smoked Beef Brisket, roast potatoes, onion rings ($36) showcasing soft cushiony meat that is fall-apart tender, it's walloping fatty richness cut with the sparse bitter greens and those fleeting moments of airy crispiness from the onion rings. Served with roast potatoes that have been left to bathe and soak up the savory gravy, there's no single voice to this dish.

4fourteen wins in many ways, charming ambiance and polished service with gungho and proactive staff. It is no wonder the wait lists remain.

72A Fitzroy street
Surry Hills
Tel: 9331 5399

4Fourteen on Urbanspoon


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Meet Sihan

Snap Eat Love is Lee Sihan. 27 going on 28, she is a dessert enthusiast, food nomad, wanderer of lands and a pastry chef currently working in Sydney. Fueled by a lifelong addiction to all things sweet, and a burning desire to travel the globe follow her as she embarks on delicious escapades both in and out of the kitchen

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